Wash the recesses with Nuln Oil. Cheers! I’ve included a list of all the paints I used for my Alpha Legion painting guide below, some of these can be easily swapped out or substituted for similar paints and should still achieve the desired effect. ), making sure you wait till each coat is dry before applying the next. And how timely. When I was asked how to paint Alpha Legion in the dark style I like to do by a reader recently, I figured this would be the perfect opportunity to try it out my spray painting technique and see how it would work with a two-tone color scheme. Orks, Grots, Witch Hunters, Games Workshop, the Games Workshop logo, Warhammer, Citadel, the Citadel logo, Codex, Imperial Guard, Space Marine,
That and hop off the caffeine before you sit down to paint.cpyke: Thanks!Black Bard: The armour is the two spray colors. Spray the whole model with this mix using the airbrush, including recesses. This will ensure they all look coherent together – it is very easy to get a mix wrong and very hard to fix it without starting over! Awesome, I tried painting scales on my old Vulkan He'stan model, they looked kinder crap. Used without permission. Apply rust weathering powder to tracks and engine parts of vehicles, and exhaust smoke soot (black weathering powder) to gun barrels and exhausts. Maybe lighten the scales a tiny bit so they blend into the background a little more and add some finer detail...JW: It all depends on what effect you're shooting for. 8. Hi Gregg, when it comes to the clear blue glaze stage, would GW’s Guilliman Blue Glaze be an okay substitute? Steps 6-9 on creating the iconic Alpha Legion Colour Scheme. For vehicles, spray the bottom 25% of the side panels, the entire underneath, and also wherever else shadows would appear, such as gaps between armour plates. The method might seem long and arduous, but it actually doesn’t take too long because it is mainly airbrushing with minimal brush work, so it is relatively quick to get units done, I promise! 7. Hm, Word Bearers or Alpha Legion...? Zab: Stick to your plans!SC John: Thank you Sir.AdrianD: I little refining and I think this could be something super sharp looking on the table. Another nice and quick method to get good looking scales. I've actually got a couple di... You can use Micro Set and Micro Sol or you can skip them when it comes to applying waterslide transfers (decals). Love the article Gregg! This time though, I'm going to look at how to paint the powe... Line highlighting can be easy if you take a few steps in the beginning and set yourself up for success. I wanted to try and find a way to replicate the box-art Alpha Legion colour scheme with as little effort as possible. If you've got a relevant tip, trick or link, make sure to include it in your comment for the rest of us to check out! I apply a highlight to the raised areas with Vallejo Game Air Silver. Kai: I like this color shift look as well, it's just that Alpha Legion don't call to me like other chapters do.Matthew McDonough: Thank you!Freakiq Toth: Excellent stuff there. A little highlight might be just the trick to make them stand out a bit more. Thin, transparent coats are key here in order to blend the blues and greens together, which is made possible by using the airbrush). If you enjoyed this article here’s a few ways you can support us: Check out our commission service and let us get your army painted and ready for battle. Hydra Dominatus! Create a mix of 90% Tamiya Clear blue with 10% Tamiya Clear Green and then add lots of thinner to this mix (I used Tamiya thinner but Vallejo thinner would work fine as well). Additionally, the silver paint wont stick to the resin as well as the black undercoat, meaning some grey might shine through. Here is my attempt, below. If you have trouble keeping your hands steady, try bracing your painting hand against the one holding your model; right at the heel of your palm. Simple yet effective stuff. I’m in the process of growing my Genestealer Cult and also have an Alpha Legion 30k army. 1. No challenge to their status is intended. Now comes the shading. Now we are going to prepare the model for some shading, and give it a good shine in the process. I also used a normal HB pencil to scratch across armour plates for super-fine scrapes and ricochets. Maybe five minutes a whole model to line both shoulders and greaves if you drag your feet. Hi Trevor, priming with black means that the true colour of the silver base coat that is sprayed on ends up actually being silver, whereas if you spray the silver directly onto the bare plastic and resin the colour will be dulled significantly. Very nice. The transition is really nice, but it could use a final highlight across the underside of the scales. Wow, that model looks plain awesome! Excellent, best of luck with it. To say I’m a gaming enthusiast would be the understatement of the century… I’ve collected Warhammer 40k all throughout a (misspent?) Heresy isn’t easy – you have to muster your forces, plan the route to Terra and make sure that your armour looks good. Hopefully this guide on how to paint Alpha Legion has been helpful and here’s a picture of my army so far. Let us know in the comments. I have additional question – how do you do you bases? Hey all, Gregg here with a guide on how to paint Alpha Legion in the 30k colour scheme! It's an old trick that's helped me a few times already. On the Glaive, I applied these highlights to the large armour plates on the side and top, as well as most of the turret. You could use any color blue and green that you wanted (especially if you had an airbrush)... the only thing you need to make sure of is that both colors are very close (if not the same) value.That's the key... making sure they are the same value so they blend together in terms of light and dark. Great detailed tutorial! Apply small chips to the edge of the model’s armour plates with Citadel Leadbelcher paint (or equivalent) using the edge of a sponge. Loving the scales by the way. Airbrush a zenithal highlight of Army Painter Shining Silver.3. Do not highlight the tracks, gun barrels or engine. The oil should woosh from the brush, and instantly run into all the cracks giving nice neat shading. The reason for using this oil wash is that it runs much more freely, allowing for quick and accurate shading of panel lines, and more importantly, the wash will not sit on the raised areas of the model in the same way a normal wash will. To do this you spray the model from a top down view in a 90° cone. Thanks very much! Firstly, it will enrich the turquoise beneath and blend the colours together smoothly, it will take a small amount of the shine away from the gloss varnish to make it a bit more realistic, and it also tones down the metallic nature of the previous highlight just a tiny amount, meaning the chipping we’ll apply later will appear more of a contrast. Wow!Definitely looks different for sure.If you dont mind me asking, what color spray paints did you use for the blue and the green? For step 13, did you use the airbrush, or a brush? Highlight, using a brush, the edges of all the non-turquoise areas of the model such as guns and shoulder pad trims using Vallejo Game Air Silver.
Pick out all the rivets and other small details with silver as well.
All that’s left to do is pick out the other details, finish the base and then your Alpha Legionnaire is ready for battle! There’s loads of videos on YouTube that show this technique clearly; Wait at least 24 for hours for the oil wash to dry. 5. Turns out there is! Try and get an even coat all over to allow the silver underneath to show through. Always been a big supporter of people trying different styles with "official" schemes. This creates a gradient where you can see the highlight colour from above while keeping the previous colour visible from below. Brilliant. Another legionnaire is always welcome. This acts as a highlight so should be sprayed from a top-down angle to simulate light hitting the raised areas of the model. To seal in the weathering powder, carefully spray on a coat of matt varnish to the areas of the model that have the weathering power on them. Then using a smaller brush, simply tap the wash into the seams between armour plates, around rivets, and into any other crevice (stop sniggering) on the turquoise areas. Airbrush an all over layer of 50/50 Tamiya Clear Blue/Tamiya Thinner. Thanks for sharing the link. I thought I would take the opportunity for some much overdue practice at painting freehand! Now you've made this a really tough choice, as yours is among the best AL colour schemes I've seen yet.Argh! Also apply dirt weathering powder (I used Kromlech Dark Dirt) to tracks, and around the lower parts of the model such as feet. I only ask as there are a few painters who use the minitare ghost tint range of glazes through an airbrush. Spray the whole model with two or three thin coats of Gloss Varnish (and yes, I am serious! Take off all the masking tape and blue tac. ← Mechanicum vs Alpha Legion Battle Report, Warhammer 40,000 Dark Imperium Giveaway →, http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2013/5/6/493111_md-Alpha%20Legion%20Heresy-era%20Legion%20Plasma%20Pistol%20Pre-heresy%20The%20Horus%20Heresy.jpg, http://images.wikia.com/warhammer40k/images/3/39/Camillarus_Cataphractii_Termis.jpg, The Big List of Wargaming Black Friday Deals 2020, Secret Weapon Exhaust Smoke Weathering Powder. Just awesome!!! The model was converted using parts from the Forgeworld Alpha Legion and Sons of Horus upgrade packs. Looks awesome. Most if not all of my previous Dark Angels work centered around Deathwing. Thanks for sharing all your little bits of painting tips and tricks!
Lets get started! Sculpting greenstuff cloaks takes patience and a little bit of know how. If it was applied with an airbrush the glaze would hit the silver trim and other details which we don’t want. Hi Hugh, thanks very much, glad the guide will be helpful for you!
With this method, it is very important that the mixes and thickness of coats applied to models in your army are consistent, so I would recommend batch painting as many models as possible. This step adds a final highlight to the turquoise to bring some of the silver back through.
May try this on my new He'stan though. This looks great! They take no time at all. That blue/green looks awesome! This is a good example: http://images.dakkadakka.com/gallery/2013/5/6/493111_md-Alpha%20Legion%20Heresy-era%20Legion%20Plasma%20Pistol%20Pre-heresy%20The%20Horus%20Heresy.jpg, Green pteruges aside, this is good too: http://images.wikia.com/warhammer40k/images/3/39/Camillarus_Cataphractii_Termis.jpg, Hi Luke, for the purple/blue colour, I would switch out the green detailed in this guide for purple instead, and keep all other steps the same. Both in terms of modelling them as well as painting. Again this mix should be very watery. basically the consistency of water). Hi Barry, thanks for your comment and glad to hear the guide has been helpful! Undercoat the model with black primer (I used Vallejo Model Air primer but any black undercoat is fine). Glaze the whole model with Guilliman Blue. What colours did you use besides the Kantor blue for the armour? Although be careful not to spray the matt varnish over any other parts of the model as this will take away the shine that we worked so hard to achieve.
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